Shoe and method of making shoes



May 28, 1940. A A. DAGDIGIAN 2,202,093

SHOE AND METHOD 0F MAKING SHOES Filed April 13, 1938 Y f z "llo/10,010,E;

22 r-*i j? ZZ mneww -/e/IM DAGD/G/AN Patented May 28, 1940 UNITED STATESRMKQQL- PATENT OFFICE SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Aram Dagdigian,Reading, Mass., assigner to Shoe Lace Company, Boston, Mass., acorporation of Maine a Application April 13, 1938, Serial No. 201,746

' 7 Claims.

of insole, outsole and the intervening lasted-overy portion of theupper, in cement process shoes generally, and in McKay-type shoes ofopenwork styles.

In the manufacture of cement process shoes capable of competing in pricewith the low-cost foreign importations, considerations of economy ofmanufacture frequently make it necessary to employ insoles made ofinexpensive paper stock or of composition materials. In such cases thecement joinders, to the insole, of lasted over portions of the upper,and of the outsole, are apt to be insecure because of the tendency ofthe cement-carrying surface portion ofthe insole to peel from the mainbody of insole. Also, and regardless of the quality of insolejgit hasbeen practically impossible to attain any kind of a cement joinder ofoutsole to insole, at the region of the usual shank stifener, exceptindirectly by adhesion of the outsole to the lasted-over portions ofupper, which in turn are cemented to the insole. A

Another problem, which has been present in McKay type shoes as well asin cement process shoes, is an incident of the trend to openwork stylesof shoe uppers. In openwork designs, only discontinuous portions ofupper are available for being lasted over the insole; and sometimes th`ewidth of these is merely that of straps. When the outsole is applied,the discontinuity of upper results in theformation of conspicuousopenings extending inward between insole and outsole. These openings notonly disgure the shoe, they also are regions Where no securement hasbeen eiiected, or only an ineective securement, of insole to outsole. Ifpressure is employed to force the outsole against the insole at theseregions, objectionable irregularities result at the tread of thefinished shoe, or in the insole interiorly of the shoe, or at both ofthese places.

It is an object of the invention to provide a combined attaching andfilling means at the juncture of insole, upper and outsole, whereby amore eiiective securing of these elements together may be accomplishedin cement process shoes-especially along the shank region and, inopenwoik styles, between discontinuous portions of lasted upper.

Another object is to improve the structure and appearance of shoes ofthe McKay type, particularly openwork styles of McKay shoes, byutilizing y a compressible element which becomes compressed whereportions of upper are lasted over upon it, and which extends withfull-bodied thickness between such portions of upper, for filling spaceswhich might otherwise be left vacant between insole and outsole.

A further feature resides in combining my improved attaching and fillingstrip with an edge binding for the insole, at locations of exposure ofinsole edges in openwork shoes.

It is, moreover, an important feature that the invention may be embodiedin shoes economically and expeditiously, its embodiment in openworkcement process shoes being a distinct aid in the operation of bindingthe insole edges.

These objects and results may be attained, in a preferred form of theinvention, by providing a compressible ller strip, preferably ofmaterial which is readily permeable by cement, and stitchi` ing thatstrip to the margin of the insole, on that side of the insole which willbe toward the outsole in the nished shoe. This compressible strip willbe one having substantial body. The stitching will extend along itsouter edge, with the principal width of body of strip adapted toliebetween the upper and the insole. Then, in an openwork shoe, theportions of upper which are present compress the body of the strip,leaving bulging portions of the strip at places Where the upper has beencut away, thickly tending to ll the spaces between the portions ofupper.

In cement process shoes these bulged portions of strip are available forbeing secured by cement to the outsole as the latter is applied over thelasted upper, thus providing means for securement of outsole to insoleat regions where there is no portion of upper, as well as at placeswhere portions of the upper are present. And the sescurement may thus beeifected without such a magnitude of pressure as would form waves on thetread or on the insole.

Also it is an important feature that the attachment of the strip is bystitches through the whole body of the insole, rather than merely to itssurface, thus eliminating the danger that surlinvention disclosed.

In the accompanying drawing:

Figure 1 is a side elevation of a cement process shoe of openworkconstruction, embodying features oi the invention;

Figure 2 is a bottom perspective of an insole provided with an attachingand ller strip according to the invention; l

Figure 3 is a perspective of a fragment of insole showing an edgebindingsecured by the same stitches which hold the attaching and filler stripof the invention;

Figure 4 is a perspective of the forepart of the shoe of Figure 1, witha fragment of outsole broken away;

Figure 5 is an elevation in section 5-5 of Figure 1, on a larger scale;and

'Figure 6 is an elevation in section on 6-6 of Figure 4.

Referring to the drawing, the shoe of Figure 1 is representative ofcement process shoes in general, having an upper I0, insole I2 andoutsole I4. As illustrated, the upper is of an openwork style whereinthe edge of the insole would be visible at the voids in the upper. Theinvention is illustrated as it may be applied in cases where the insoleis of inexpensive stock, such as paper, or the like. In such, becauseportions of edges of insole are to be exposed, the entire edge, oratleast any portion which is to be exposed, is nished by being coveredwith a binding matef rial of color and texture to combine well with theupper in the attainment of a generally pleasing aesthetic effect. But itshould be understood that such an edge binding is not requisite to theattainment of the herein disclosed advantages, and that certainadvantages of the invention apply to a McKay type of openwork shoe asWell as to cement process shoes in general.

According to the invention a usual insole I2 may be made and cut todesired size and shape by methods and apparatus as vnow employed. Myattaching and filler strip I6 is stitched to the insole as at I8 alongthe marginal edges of the insole, with a substantial thickness and widthof body of the strip extending inward from the stitches, for serving asa filler between insole and outsole at regions where these elements,without it, would not become satisfactorily adhered together-becausetheir surfaces which face together are in planes at a little distancefrom each other. Conveniently thestrip I6 may be a length of cottontubing which, preferably,

will contain a ller of cotton or the like, such` as .the group ofseveral yarns 20 (Figure 3). This tubing may be compressed to flatness,at its edge which is to be stitched to the insole, while the body of thestrip bulges with respect to the stitched portion, and so can constitutea illler.

When the edges of insole I2 are to be bound, the binding 22 may bestitched to the insole simultaneously with strip I6, and by the samestitches. Heretofore the putting on of such a binding has frequentlyinvolved dimculties, because a. work-feeding-means does not take hold ofthe binding effectively, due to the slippery nature of the type ofbinding material which often is used, resemblingpatent leather. But whenthe 4binding is applied simultaneously with the strip I6, with the stripI6 overlying the binding, both may be applied and stitched smoothly andeiilclently with an ordinary walking foot sewing machine, whose walkingfoot readily takes hold of the compressible cotton so that it can coactwith the feed dog for effective feeding of the work.

The strip I6 will be applied at the margin of the insole on that facewhich will come next to the outsoleyin a nished shoe, and it may extendall around the insole, or may be only at particular regions of insole,including the heel.

The lasting of a cement process shoe with an insole as above described,and as shown in Figures 2-5, proceeds according to present practices. Ifthe upper is not of a cut-out style, the ller advantages of the strip I6will occur principally along the shank where the introduced stiiener 24ordinarily prevents adhesive securement of outsole to insole exceptwhere there are portions of the upper. 'But the strip I6 of theinvention extends as a filler in the space usually left vacant betweeninsole and outsole, along each side of the shank stiilener; and thisstrip may be cemented to both insole and outsole at these regions, toimprove the structure of the shank, and to increase the strength Yofattachment of insole to upper along this important region of a finishedshoe. With such .a full-bodied upper the binding 22 might be omitted.

With an openwork upper as portrayed, the advantages above described arepresent at the shank, and the strip I6 serves additionally as a ller andattaching means between discontinuous lasted-over portions of the upper.Referring to Figure 4, the strip portions II, II of upper are shownlasted over upon the strip I6, compressing the strip where they engageit, but leaving the strip bulged as at I1, between the straps II, II. Asthe outsole I4 is laid in place, it can be effectively cemented to thelasted-over straps II, II in the customary way, and,` by the invention,the outsole also may be secured to the insole at the regions betweenstraps II, II because the strip I6 lls the space which otherwise wouldbe vacant, and is stitched to whole thickness of insole and cemented tothe outsole, and may additionally be cemented to the insole. Besidesproviding a stronger attachment of the outsole, the invention improvesthe appearance of the finished shoe by eliminating visible openingsbetween insole and outsole, and by making no ridges in outsole andinsole such as sometimes result from efforts to close these edgeopenings by severity of pressure.

The strip I6 can provide the said ller advantages in openwork McKay typeshoes as well as in cement process shoes.

It is an important feature of the invention that my strip I6 is stitchedthrough the insole and 'thus is securely anchored to the full thicknessof insole. Because of this the pull of the outsole does not generate atendency for the insole to become split, and to'peel, as has happenedheretofore when paper stock insoles have been used in cement processshoes.

If the insole is of a better quality not subject to danger of peeling orsplitting, the securement l of the strip I6 may be by cement alone. Asthe filling strip intervenes between outsole and insole and isultimately to be secured to both the outsole and the insole, its initialapplication may be to either of these soles, and its joinder to theother of them will follow when the outsole is applied to the insole. Theillustrated arrangement in which the strip lies between the upper 76 andthe insole, is believed more convenient and is preferred, rather thanthe alternative equivalent in which it is between the upper and theoutsole, stitched or cemented to the margin of the outsole, on that sideof the outsole which is to face the insole.

I claim as my invention;

1. In a shoe having an openwork upper, an insole and an outsole, thecombination wherein the insole has an edge-binding visible throughopenings in the upper, and a compressible filling strip is positionedalong the margin of the insole and overlies said binding on one side ofthe insole; and a line of stitches secures together the binding, thelling strip and the insole; said strip having a body of breadth andthickness rinward from said stitches sufcient for constituting a llerbetween the marginal portions of the insole and outsole at saidopenings.

2. An insole for shoes having a marginal compressible strip stitched toone face thereof, said strip having its full breadth inside of the edgeof the insole and having suicient thickness and breadth of body to llspace between and attach together the insole and outsole when an upperis inserted between the insole and outsole, said strip being of materialwhich is readily permeable by cement at its surface which will come nextto the outsole.

3. An insole for shoes having an edge-binding, a marginal compressiblestrip and stitches through the strip, the binding and the full thicknessof insole; said strip having suflicient breadth and thickness of bodyinward from its stitches for constituting a filler between the marginalportions of the insole and an outsole when an outsole is combined withthe insole.

4. An insole for shoes, as in claim 3, wherein the said compressiblestrip is a cotton fabric tube having ller threads of cotton extendinglongitudinally within the tube.

5. In a. shoe having an upper, insole and outsole, the combinationwherein a strip of compressible material which, at both surfacesthereof, is readily permeable by cement is secured by stitching alongthe margin of one of said soles,

with its full breadth inside of the edge of that sole, and intervenesbetween the insole and the outsole, constituting an attaching and illlerelement between lasted-over portions of the upper and the insole, andbetween the insole and the outsole at locations where there is no upper.

6. In a shoe having an upper,lnsole and outsole, the combination whereinthe insole has its edge bound with a material which is not readilypermeable by cement, and wherein a strip of compressible material whichis readily permeable by cement is secured by stitching along the marginof the insole so as to overlie a turned over portion of said bindingmaterial, with the said stitching extending through the compressiblematerial, binding material and insole; said compressible materialintervening between the insole and the outsole, for constituting anattaching and ller element between the upper and the insole and betweenthe insole and the outsole at locations where there is no upper.

'7. In the manufacture of openwork shoes the method of making thejuncture of insole and outsole, comprising the providing of an insolehaving a binding strip folded over its edge, and having acement-permeable, compressible, lling strip laid over that portion ofthe binding strip which is at the marginal f ace of the insole that willbe toward the outsole, the two said strips being secured to the insole.by stitches which extend through the lling strip, binding strip andinsole; the applying of cement to said illling strip; lasting thediscontinuous portions of the upper over the insole, thus thinning theller strip under them by compressing it, but leaving said stripelsewhereat approximately its original thiclmess; and then applying theoutsole to the insole, with the lasted-over portions of upper, and saidstrip, intervening between `insole and outsole.

ARAM DAGDIGIAN.

